Bratislava: About us but without us

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Slovakia is a country that often goes unnoticed, tucked away in Central Europe, unless one is journeying between Hungary and Poland or cruising along the Danube. However, my recent visit to Bratislava, the Slovak capital, offered an unexpected treat, unveiling a city that blends history, charm, and resilience in a way that left me thoroughly captivated.

With a population of approximately 500,000 in a nation of 5 million, Bratislava has a manageable size that lends itself to exploration. My guide, Patrik, a native of the city, met me after I had enjoyed a hearty European breakfast at my hotel near the historic Old Town. Staying in this central area provided easy access to Bratislava’s treasures, from its charming streets to its architectural landmarks.

Bratislava’s Old Town may be smaller than those in Prague or Budapest, but it offers a distinct allure. The winding streets are lined with quaint shops, and what struck me immediately was the absence of cars, as the area is exclusively pedestrian. At the heart of the district stands St. Martin’s Cathedral, a magnificent Gothic structure completed in 1452. Its 85-metre spire dominates the skyline, and has played a significant role in the region’s history, serving as the coronation site for Hungarian kings for nearly 300 years.

The history of Slovakia is one marked by occupation and foreign influence, a reality emphasized by a local saying: "Everyone makes decisions about us, but without us." The region has seen Celts, Romans, Hungarians, and more, pass through, leaving traces of their cultures. Recently, Roman artefacts were unearthed in the picturesque Tatra Mountains, dating back to around 400 CE, when the Celts claimed the area, after the Romans had moved on.

The 16th century brought challenging times as the Ottoman Empire sought to expand its reach. Slovakia’s mountainous terrain served as a natural barrier, enabling the Hungarian Empire to hold off the invaders. It was during this period that Bratislava, then a part of Hungary, became a fortified city with walls, built to protect its inhabitants.

The 20th century presented its own set of trials. Following the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire after World War I, Slovakia found itself struggling to establish a stable identity. By 1938, Nazi forces had invaded, leading to a dark chapter in the nation’s history. Bratislava’s once-thriving Jewish community, home to the world’s second-largest synagogue, was decimated. Of the 57,000 Slovak Jews sent to concentration camps, only a thousand survived. Under communist rule after World War II, the synagogue was destroyed to make way for urban development, a poignant reminder of the hardships endured.

After the war, Soviet forces liberated the region, and Bratislava's Hitler Square was renamed Hlavné Námestie, or Main Square. Slovakia was merged with the Czech Republic to form Czechoslovakia, a union that lasted until 1989, when communism fell. By 1993, Slovakia had declared independence, becoming a democratic nation, and later joining the European Union in 2004.

Despite its tumultuous past, Bratislava today is a city on the rise. Situated along the Danube, its growth is evident as more people leave rural areas to embrace urban life. Yet the city has not lost touch with its roots, preserving sites like Bratislava Castle, a regal structure that overlooks the Old Town. Originally a royal residence, the castle later served as military barracks during the Napoleonic Wars. Fully restored, it now stands as a symbol of Slovak perseverance. Beneath it lies an 800-metre tunnel, once a wine cellar, and later a nightclub, now a tram route. The castle gardens, offering panoramic views of the Danube, are a highlight of any visit.

A short trip from the city centre brought me to Devín Castle, perched on the banks of the Danube where the river meets the Morava. Built in 1271, this fortress has seen countless occupants over the centuries, from medieval rulers to Nazi forces. Standing at the site, the proximity of Austria across the river was striking, a testament to Bratislava’s geographic significance.

Before leaving, I made a point to visit the Blue Church, an architectural gem built in 1909. With its ornate blue majolica tiles and wedding cake-like appearance, this unique structure is dedicated to St. Elizabeth of Hungary, a revered figure known for her charitable deeds.

What sets Bratislava apart from many former Soviet-occupied cities, is the warmth of its people. Friendly and welcoming, the locals seem eager to share their city’s story with visitors. The mix of rich history, vibrant culture, and modern development, creates an inviting atmosphere that makes Bratislava a destination worth exploring.

Though my time in Bratislava was brief, it left a lasting impression. The city’s balance of tradition and progress, coupled with its captivating sights and stories, ensures it stands out among Europe’s capitals. For those seeking a journey through time and culture, Bratislava offers an experience that is as rewarding as it is surprising.

Jonathan van Bilsen is an award winning photographer, author, columnist and television host. Follow his travel adventures at photosNtravel.com