Central Portugal

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Lisbon, the capital of Portugal, with a population of three million inhabitants, was a fantastic city to visit. Staying in the historic centre is key to exploring the city on foot. Tiled sidewalks add a beauty unto itself, and the historic buildings take you back in history. Deep purple jacaranda trees line the two main squares, and the fragrance can be noticed long before you see them.

The city is extremely hilly, so I took a Tuk Tuk to explore some of the spectacular vistas of Graça, the highest point in the city.

I quickly learned that driving is a challenge and if you have a car, find a place to park it and use public transportation, or hire a guide with a vehicle. That holds true anywhere in Portugal. You will spend more time looking for parking places than anything else, and visits to towns or historic areas will be cut short.

Lisbon has a great deal to offer, whether you fancy history, food or just exploring an ancient European city. Belém, a nearby suburb, has three worthwhile attractions. The cathedral, where famed explorer, Vasco da Gama is laid to rest, is very ornate. Entry is easy, especially if you do it in late morning. Next to the cathedral is the Monastery of Jeronimos, another not-to-be-missed site, but the line-ups are usually an hour or so.

After visiting the cathedral, I enjoyed an early lunch, which brought me back to the monastery, when many tourists were dining. This shortened the wait time considerably and left ample time to visit the Pastéis de Belém patisserie, well-known for its custard tarts. Famous all over Portugal, nowhere do these little delicacies taste as good as in the place where they originated.

A few hundred metres from the cathedral and monastery, is the icon of Lisbon, the Tower of Belém. This is a 16th-century landmark, which served as a beacon for sailors, and an outpost against raiders. Belém means Bethlehem in Portuguese. The city was named by the Portuguese colonizers to reflect their Christian heritage, and to honour the biblical city of Bethlehem.

I headed for my next stop, the picturesque village of Sintra, about 40 minutes away. A walk along the narrow streets, lined with souvenir shops and eateries was enjoyable, but the main reason to visit, is the magnificent Pena Palace. Constructed in three styles, each depicting an historical point in Portuguese history, the palace was built in 1854, by the Portuguese King, Ferdinand II. Tickets must be purchased in advance, and are for a set time, so you will need to do a little planning to make this once in a lifetime experience work.

As great as Lisbon is, i enjoyed visiting smaller towns, such as Evora, with its narrow winding streets. It was once home to the Jewish population of the area, and features an ancient Roman Temple dedicated to the goddess Diana. Small fishing villages, such as Cascais and Eniceaira, are a photographer’s paradise. White houses with blue trim, line narrow streets and are only a few minutes’ walk from pristine beaches, that make you want to stay forever.

The area was home to the Knights Templar, after many escaped the French persecution. In the city of Tomar, these crusaders erected a massive cathedral, covered in gold leaf, which sparkles in the sunlight. The Convent of Christ, as it is now known, is one of the most magnificent churches I have ever seen.

Travelling along the coast is a unique experience, especially visiting Nazare (Nazareth in Portuguese). The area proudly boasts the highest waves in the world. They usually happen in October and November, and reach as high as 30 metres. I decided not to try my surfing skills.

Cabo Espichel is the westernmost point of Portugal, and a short visit to see the lighthouse and church is a worthwhile trek. The entire Arrabida Mountain region gives you a splendid view of the rugged coast, where you will find frighteningly tall cliffs.

Roman influence is everywhere, albeit ruins or reconstructed buildings. Portugal was first settled by the Celtic tribes.  The Romans invaded the country in the 3rd century, CE, and settled there for several hundred years. When the Roman Empire fell, the Germanic tribesmoved in. They overstayed their welcome, and the Portuguese landowners invited the Moors from Northern Africa to come and help them cleanse the area of the barbarians. The Moorish people, did what they were tasked with, but liked the area so much, they stayed for 500 years. Their influence can be seen everywhere, especially in the decorative tiles which cover many buildings and houses.

When the Christians came from Western Europe, in the 12th century, the Moors left and a new era began. A royal family was established, which ruled until 1910. A revolution, resulting in the exile of the king and the formation of a dictatorship, lasted until 1926. A fascist regime took over and was ousted in 1974, during a second, more peaceful revolution. Today the country has a democratic parliament and a peaceful, safe and most enjoyable locale to visit.

In my article next month, I will share my visit to the northern part of Portugal, an equally spectacular area.

Jonathan van Bilsen’s photosNtravel TV show can be watched on RogersTV and YouTube. To follow Jonathan’s travel adventures visit photosNtravel.com