Hungarian Rhapsody

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Any European city situated along a great river, such as the Rhine or the Danube, naturally draws in visitors, and thrives because of its location. I recently had the pleasure of spending five days in Budapest, Hungary’s capital, a truly magnificent city stretched along both sides of the Danube.

The city, once two distinct towns - Buda and Pest - was unified in 1873 to form modern-day Budapest. Steeped in history, it was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until the end of World War I, when the empire fell apart and Hungary emerged as an independent country.

By 1938, Hungary's alignment with Nazi Germany shifted its political landscape. Fascist groups, who sought closer ties with Germany, pushted Hungary towards annexation by 1940. The Governor at the time sided with Hitler, ensuring a relatively peaceful transition. The consequences of World War II were devastating, with the last German soldier surrendering to Soviet forces in 1945. Hungarians were left in a dire state, with a shattered infrastructure and widespread poverty. The infamous 1956 uprising, in which Hungarians revolted against Soviet control, ended tragically with thousands of civilians killed by the Communist forces.

By 1990, with the fall of communism in the USSR, Hungary began to shape its own path forward, and prosperity slowly returned.

One of the city’s most striking landmarks is its Parliament building, a true architectural marvel, located on the banks of the Danube. Completed in 1904, this enormous structure stands as a symbol of the city, and is easily one of the most recognizable government buildings in the world. A tour of the interior is highly sought after, but securing tickets is not easy. Most are snapped up well in advance by cruise lines, leaving few available for casual visitors. I was fortunate to arrive early one morning and, after a short wait in line, secured tickets for the day.

The tour itself is an impressive experience, but it comes at a cost. Hungary’s state-owned attractions operate with a dual pricing system, charging non-European Union residents twice the price of EU citizens. As a result, I paid around $50 per ticket for the Parliament tour. While it might seem steep, the visit is worth every penny, for a glimpse of this spectacular building’s grandeur.

The best view of the Parliament, however, is not from within but from across the river on the Buda side. Fisherman’s Bastion, an iconic viewing point, offers striking panoramic views of the building framed by the river. On my previous visit to Budapest, some 24 years ago, entry to this area was free, but there is now a fee for access, reflecting the city’s growing tourist infrastructure.

In the Fisherman’s Bastion area stands Matthias Church, an extraordinary piece of architecture worth the visit. For a small admission fee, visitors are treated to the church’s stunning interior, a space rich in history and beauty.

Another essential stop is Budapest Castle, perched high above the city. The view from here is breathtaking, offering sweeping sights of the Danube and Parliament. Although the castle itself now houses an art gallery, the historical ambiance remains. Nearby, there are several excellent restaurants where you can sample traditional Hungarian fare. I indulged in a hearty bowl of Hungarian goulash, a flavourful, tomato-based soup brimming with tender meat, potatoes and vegetables.

A stroll through Budapest’s main park takes you to Vajdahunyad Castle, which now serves as an agricultural museum. Built in the late 1800s, the castle’s historic design makes it feel like you are stepping into another era. It is one of many architectural gems scattered throughout the city.

For those who enjoy thermal baths, Budapest has plenty to offer - more than 100 of them, to be precise. The largest and grandest of these is located near City Park, where visitors can relax in healing waters while taking in the grand surroundings.

During my stay, I also ventured beyond the city to visit Gödöllő, the former residence of Emperor Franz Josef I and his wife, Queen Elisabeth, also known as Sissi. The palace, which boasts 691 rooms, has been fully restored and offers a fascinating audio tour. It’s a wonderful place to explore, with plenty of interesting stories woven into the fabric of its history.

One of the most scenic towns near Budapest is Szentendre, just a short 45 minute drive from the capital. This picturesque village is a haven of charm, with its colourful buildings, art galleries, and inviting cafes. The cobblestone streets seem to hold echoes of the past, while the vibrant atmosphere welcomes travellers to linger. Strolling along the Danube here, I found the peacefulness of the river matched perfectly with the town's creative spirit. The blend of Hungarian and Serbian influences is visible everywhere, from the architecture to the food. No visit is complete without stopping at a cozy cafe for a local pastry, a delightful way to soak in the relaxed, artistic vibe of the town.

On this trip, I also made a stop in Visegrád, drawn by the promise of a marzipan museum. As someone with Dutch roots, marzipan has always been a favourite of mine, so I couldn’t pass up the chance. While there, I also explored Visegrád's fortress, perched high above the village, offering spectacular views of the surrounding landscape.

Budapest itself is a city best explored on foot. The public transportation system is top-notch, with an extensive network of trams and underground lines, but walking allows you to fully appreciate the beauty around every corner. The downtown area, completely pedestrianized, is filled with historic squares and charming streets, free from the bustle of cars. Shops and cafes cater to every need, making it easy to spend hours wandering through the vibrant city centre.

This was my second time visiting Hungary, and I was struck by how much I had forgotten of its unique splendour. Each visit reveals something new, reminding me that Budapest is a city full of treasures, both old and new, waiting to be discovered.

Jonathan van Bilsen is an award winning photographer, author, columnist and television host. Follow his travel adventures at photosNtravel.com